Sewer or septic?
Sewer, or city sewer, is available to most areas close to the city or close to the sewer treatment plant. If you have a house or vacant lot, it will either be on city sewer or on a septic system. A septic system is an on-site treatment plant. If you are not close to city sewer you will be on a septic system . If your lot is within 300 feet (in some counties) of city sewer you might be forced to hook into city sewer.
What are the components of a septic system?
Septic systems have many different components:
Sewer pipe - From house to septic tank.
Septic Tank - Septic tanks are usually at least 1000 gallons
Dosing Tank - Not used in every system, this is a tank that has a pump in it, similar to a sump pump.
Delivery Line - Pipe going from either septic or dosing tank to the distribution box.
Distribution Box - Helps level the water before it moves to the absorption field.
Absorption Field - Laterals, or fingers, are placed into beds of sand or stone. As technology has progressed so have options for different lateral. For example, there is a lateral field that doesn't have sand or stone.
Perimeter Drain - Also called a French drain, this lowers a seasonal high water table around the absorption field. It is not necessary on every septic system.
How does a septic system function?
Solids and water enter the septic tank. Inside the septic tank, solids and liquids separate with solids moving to the bottom of the septic tank (called sludge layer). Anaerobic and facultative microorganisms break down the solids making smaller particles and creating gas. Starting from the bottom of the inside of the septic tank there are 3 basic layers: sludge (solids), wastewater (septic effluent) and the scum layer. Some treatment takes place inside the septic tank. Technically speaking the microbes inside the septic tank are feeding on the solids which causes a reduction in organic matter. This process reduces BOD (biochemical oxygen demand, FOG (fats, oils and grease), TSS (total suspended solids). It's critical that the septic tank is watertight. As water moves out of the septic tank, through the delivery line and into the distribution box; water passes through the effluent filter. The effluent filter catches small solid particles and keeps them from moving into the absorption field (laterals). Water is leveled inside the distribution box before it enters the absorption field. The absorption field is spread out over an area of soil that has been tested by a soil scientist. As the septic water moves into the laterals and out of the laterals, the soil treats the wastewater efficiently. The goal is that wastewater is being cleaned before it reaches another place (aquifer, drain, lower lying creek, etc.)
How often should I have my septic tank pumped?
It is advised to have a septic tank pumped at least every 2 years. This is really dependent on usage of water inside the house. When having the tank pumped, the effluent filter should be cleaned. If your system has a dosing tank, (2"d tank), it is recommended to have it pumped out every 4 years.
What is an effluent filter?
An effluent filter is a filter at the exit of the septic tank. It's purpose is to keep small particles, (solids), from exiting the septic tank and going into the laterals. Effluent filters are beneficial to septic systems and are now required on all new septic tanks. It is our recommendation that the filter be cleaned every year. If you don't clean the filter, it will clog, often causing a backup of sewage into your home.
Why do I need a soil test?
Most counties require a soil test (evaluation) on your site to determine what type of septic system may or may not be installed. The soil test is performed in the area where your absorption field (laterals) will be installed. Information from the soil test; structure, soil loading rate, depth to limiting layers, etc., combined with the Indiana State Rule for septic systems, (Rule 410), helps the health department determine important features for your septic system; depth of laterals, size of septic tank, size of dosing tank if needed, perimeter drain depth if needed, etc. The soil test is a critical part of the process for obtaining septic permits and often times building permits.
Is a perc (percolation) test the same thing as a soil test?
No. A perc test used to be performed for septic systems. Basically water would be poured into a hole and then be measured to see how fast or slow the soil would drain the water. While this test is no longer accepted from the health departments the terms “perc test” and “soil test” are used interchangeably. The local health departments now require an Indiana Registered Soil Scientist to describe soil features from the surface to a depth of 60 inches or a limiting layer.
How do I obtain a septic permit?
Most counties have a similar process for obtaining a septic permit; however, each county may handle this process differently, so to be sure, you should always call your local health department to find out their process. Usually the soil test is completed first, then an application for a septic permit, (sometimes a well permit may also be needed), will be completed. Most health departments prefer to have a house plan. The house plan helps the health department determine how to size the system based on the number of bedrooms. The local health department will take the soil test, house plans, and application into account and determine the requirements for your septic system. Some counties will issue you a letter of requirements, some counties prefer to meet your installer at the site to go over the requirements. The requirements will show the minimum requirements needed for your septic system. Next, your installer will complete a septic design, (they will use a laser level and shoot elevations on your site), and submit it to the health department. The health department will review the septic design, ask for any changes or corrections, and if acceptable will issue you a septic permit. In most counties, the septic permit is required before a building permit will be issued. Again, each county has different guidelines for their septic system procedures so it is always a great idea to call them and find out exactly how they operate.
How do I decide the best place for my house on my lot?
You can always pick any spot you like for your house as long as you meet the county rules; distance from road, right of ways, distance from property line, building lines, etc. Your builder should be very familiar with these rules. In general, usually the higher ground is the best place for you house as far as drainage goes. As a rule of thumb, involving your soil scientist in determining the best place for your house is a great idea. Sometimes it's not a bad idea to determine where your septic system is going before you determine the placement of your house. Your builder, your soil scientist, and your local building inspector can be a great value in determining the best site for your house. It will be important for you to have at least an idea of where you would like to place your driveway, barn, pool, fence, garage, etc., before you meet with your soil scientist. However, be open to suggestions.
Is this a good place for a basement?
This is a great question for your soil scientist. Your soil scientist understands drainage in your soil. He/she also understands depths to limiting layers and what type of limiting layers are in your area. It is very possible that your builder and your soil scientist may disagree on whether a piece of land should have a basement on it or not. This happens. Honestly, there are ways to put a basement in on almost every piece of ground, (depending), but even if you can, sometimes you shouldn't. Some houses with basements have sump pumps that run continually throughout wet months costing extra money for new pumps.
If you are dead set on having a basement, we advise you to have ground tested prior to purchasing. We also recommend trying to find well drained land. A soil scientist can determine whether or not your soil has a seasonal high water table. The water table and depths to limiting layers are critical components in determining whether the land is "good" for a basement or not.
Can I have a pond on my property?
Every county is different as far as ponds go. Some counties require a pond permit and some do not. Again, we recommend calling your local building inspector or health department to find out the county specific rules.
Here are some possible helpful hints:
Low lying soil is usually the best place for a pond.
Natural drainage areas are usually a good place for a pond.
If you have a lot of stones or rocks on top of your ground, it is probably not a good place for a pond.
If neighboring homes have ponds it is probably a good place for a pond.
If the neighboring pond water depth is very low, it is probably not a good place for a pond.
The darker the soil the better place for a pond.
If you dig a deep hole, observe it the following day, and if it fills up with water it is probably a good place for a pond.
HOWEVER, THERE IS NO GUARANTEE ! ! ! We advise either having a pond assessment completed by a soil scientist, or find a pond expert installer to give you advice. It is ALWAYS a good idea to install a pond liner prior to filling it up with water to be on the safe side. The main reason for a pond liner is sand. Sand veins are found throughout soils all over Indiana. It is impossible to dictate where every sand vein is located. If your pond is placed in an area with a large enough sand vein that you didn't see, then you will have trouble with your pond holding water, (pond liners help avoid these situations).
Don't forget you will most likely have some maintenance on a pond. Eutrophication is one of the largest problems with ponds. When you see a pond with lots of green scum on the the surface, eutrophication is happening. Sometimes this can be avoided if you dig your pond properly; (deeper on the sides).
What should I do with the extra dirt leftover from digging the pond, driveway, or basement?
First and foremost, DO NOT have any extra dirt spread over your whole piece of ground. This can end up being a costly mistake down the road. Remember that your septic system is designed to last anywhere from 25 to 35 years as long as it is sized properly, you don't use more water than is designed, you pump the tank regularly (every 2 to 3 years) and you maintain your effluent filter. If your septic system fails for some reason, you will need to install a new septic system. If you have moved dirt from the pond area and placed it all over your ground, this may cost you more in the long run. One of the characteristics the soil scientist will describe in your soil test is fill material (if it is present). Fill material basically is "moved" or "disturbed" soil. Any soil not in its natural form is considered fill material. So moving dirt from the pond area over to your front yard will be considered fill material as soon as it is moved. Fill material can cause many problems when trying to obtain a septic permit. Your soil scientist can tell the difference between natural soil and fill material and they will put this information in your soil report. Sites have been destroyed due to moving dirt. It happens, unfortunately, more than one can imagine. You cannot install your laterals in fill material. If you put fill material all over your lot, you could be sorry down the road. Be mindful about where you move soil. Plan ahead and if you don't know, ASK!!!